CORSICA

The granite island that inspired travellers such as Dorothy Carrington, James Boswell and Edward Lear makes for a route that dives into breathtaking landscapes and hidden histories, finds Robin Gauldie

- Robin Gauldie

Day One

Bastia to Calvi

From Bastia Airport, follow the D82 over the Col de San Stefano into the Nebbio, a region of rolling hills and vineyards. It gets its name from the fog that can cloak it in spring and autumn, so beware if planning an early or late season drive.

The road meets the sea at Saint-Florent, at the head of the deep blue gulf that bears its name. Turn left here onto the D81, snaking along the southern fringe of the aptly named Désert des Agriates, a once-fertile region that is now a rocky, maquis-covered pocket wilderness due to over-farming, and accessible only on foot or by boat.

The road hits a high point at the Bocca de Veccu, then dips to the wadi-like Ostriconi valley. There’s a fabulous white sand beach at the river’s mouth, but it’s devoid of creature comforts. Unless you’re desperate for a dip and have packed a cooler full of drinks and a sun umbrella, carry on to the attractions of Calvi.

Dorothy Carrington, whose Granite Island is still the book to bring to Corsica, was seduced by Calvi’s louche lifestyle when she first visited in 1948. She describes a place where artists, gangsters, fishermen and shepherds mingled at a legendary boîte (nightclub) owned by Russian emigré Tao Kerkhoff. Chez Tao is still there, within the medieval citadel; it’s much blander now and a lot less egalitarian.

The Citadelle hulks over the port and a yacht-crammed marina. Nelson lost his right eye bombarding it in 1794, but despite his best efforts it’s still a bastion of French military might, garrisoned by parachutists of the Légion Étrangere. You may meet some of them cutting a dash around the town.