Highways And Byways

A.K.A. THE BIRDS, THE BEES AND THE BUTTERFLIES

Going on a road trip is a great way to really experience an area. Lara Dunn explores the Hautes-Pyrénées and its high life

 

- Lara Dunn

Driving back toward Toulouse, I am glad to be a passenger. My eyes are drawn to the not-so-distant, mist-wreathed mountains to my side, huge birds of prey wheeling above the road in the summer sky. These are the views that have been our constant companion over the past five days and it is a wrench to leave them behind. It feels so much longer ago that we arrived at bustling Toulouse airport to start our Pyrenean road trip; we have seen, done (and eaten) so much. That time dilation is always the sign of a great trip, I feel.

Our arrival in Bagnères-de-Bigorre at the start of the trip was a little frantic. Rush-hour traffic at Toulouse meant a slightly later arrival than planned, but the period loveliness of our first hotel soon put paid to any stress. It was tempting to wander around the historic spa town, but that would have to wait until tomorrow, dinner was on the cards. Dining on the local speciality of Noir de Bigorre pork steaks, the River Adour bubbling noisily along beside us matched our excitement at the days to come.

Bustling market

A tour of Bagnères-de-Bigorre is not complete without a trip to one of its spas. At one point, there were reputedly more than 40 spa establishments, some located within the cellars of people’s houses. Now, just two remain, the medical-treatment orientated Grand Thermes and the more relaxation-focused Aquensis, with its rooftop whirlpool baths and chapel-like indoor pools. Emerging rejuvenated from the latter, we wandered the streets and meandered through the market, one of the most important in the area, and groaning with local produce from cheeses to Basque spices. All too soon, it was time to leave, though, the literal high point of the trip awaited – the Pic du Midi de Bigorre.