I'm A Fool For You
Country Life UK|August 07, 2019

Soft summer fruits need nothing but fresh cream and sugar added to make a perfect treat for a golden afternoon in the garden, says Flora Watkins

Flora Watkins
I'm A Fool For You

FOOL, glorious fool. Its name evokes childhood memories of golden afternoons, endless summers and gluts of berries. Like its name, the pudding is simple, almost childlike. However, when the sun is shining and soft fruit is abundantly in season, gooseberries, rhubarb and raspberries ask for nothing more than fresh cream and a little sugar.

‘Soft, pale, creamy, untroubled, the English fruit fool is the most frail and insubstantial of English summer dishes’ was Elizabeth David’s perfect description in An Omelette and a Glass of Wine. Fruit fool is adored by children and older people alike, ‘the kind of thing that women are said to favour, but that men eat more of,’ as Jane Grigson put it in her Fruit Book (1982).

Its charm lies in its simplicity. Recipes in old cookery books describe fools made from all manner of fruits, including apple, fig and mulberry, yet fools and creams— the recipes are often interchangeable—could include eggs and were flavoured with wine, spices and lemon peel.

In The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy (1747), Hannah Glasse gives a recipe for gooseberry fool with eggs and nutmeg and her orange fool contains half-a-dozen eggs, plus cinnamon and nutmeg to taste.

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