Dinner At Prae Wood Arms

Food and drink editor Richard Cawthorne settles into a St Albans stately home turned ‘super-pub’.

- Richard Cawthorne

THE trend towards the super-pub is nothing new, although there are relatively few examples in Hertfordshire. A strong contender has now emerged with the Prae Wood Arms in a country estate setting on the fringe of St Albans. None of your refurbished former coaching inn here; this is a full-blooded stately home turned food and drink haven.

Credit for the transformation goes to the Brunning and Price company, which modestly describes itself as ‘a group of pub restaurants founded in the North West and North Wales’, but now growing fast. The portfolio is currently 53 strong with little sign of slowing – in fact, if you want to pick up a quick £5k, the website asks anyone that knows of a good site for the next pub to tell the company, and be in with a chance to claim a finder’s fee.

A quick definition of super-pub might include a touch of the obvious – there has to be beer, preferably including a selection of craft ales, and spirits. But today’s venues with ambition also offer cocktails and wine, including fizz; a good as opposed to average choice of freshly cooked food, and clean, comfortable, modern and spacious surroundings. An area for al fresco relaxing, weather permitting, ticks another box. The Prae Wood Arms, run by managers Melissa Heath and Rebecca Hall, has them all.