Postcard from Mexico City

North America's oldest, highest and largest metropolis is a magical place full of mystery and contradictions, as Marfa-based arts writers and former residents Molly Mandell and James Burke reveal

01. CASA PANI

Founded by architect Miggi Hood, mezcal brand owner Yola Jimenez and entrepreneur Marie Cazalaa, this intimate six-suite hotel is located in a revamped modernist building by Mario Pani. ‘It is close to everything, but not slap bang in the cacophony and chaos of Roma and Condesa, nor the shopping district of Polanco,’ Hood says of the location. Communal spaces include living and dining areas, a kitchen, and a dipping pool inspired by sculptor Valentine Schlegel. A complimentary Oaxacan-style breakfast, as well as in-room massages and an art concierge programme, elevate the experience. casapani.com

02. MERCADO JAMAICA

This covered market is a dinner party planner’s dream: in addition to stalls that sell produce, meat, medicinal herbs, candles and piñatas, Mercado Jamaica is home to more than 1,000 vendors specialising in more than 5,000 varieties of plants and flowers. Local baker Odette Alpuche, of Elly y Gatsby café, says: ‘I love it for many reasons, the most logical being the prices, but for me, it’s really the whole experience – the colours, the smells of the flowers and plants, the quality.’ Her tip? Grab a bite while you peruse. ‘I never miss the quesadillas – the ones with flor de calabaza are my favourite in the city!’ Guillermo Prieto 45, Venustiano Carranza

03. ESCORPIO