In Italy, white wines are almost always intended for early consumption. Arneis, Cortese, Friulano and Vernaccia are all examples of delicious, crisp wines. Italian producers are not challenged to produce ageworthy whites, mainly because the consumer is suspicious of drinking them after more than two to three years. So, to what extent are we aware of the evolution of certain indigenous Italian white wines?
Looking around the country, there are at least two groups of grape varieties that deserve a more respectful approach. Vitovska, along with Trebbiano d’Abruzzo and Carricante, are fairly neutral whites marked by steely minerality, high acidity and low pH. On the other side, there are the more phenolic grape such as Fiano, Garganega and Vermentino: less neutral, less aggressive in acidity, richer in body. Verdicchio shares characteristics with both groups.
Of course, it must be said that there are also outstanding examples of international grape varieties in Italy with well-known labels, including Antinori’s Cervaro della Sala from Umbria (a blend of Chardonnay and Grechetto), Gaja’s Gaia & Rey from Langhe (Chardonnay; see ‘Interview’, p74) and Querciabella’s Batàr (Chardonnay and Pinot Bianco) in the SuperTuscan category.
Bu hikaye Decanter dergisinin May 2020 sayısından alınmıştır.
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Bu hikaye Decanter dergisinin May 2020 sayısından alınmıştır.
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