New Heights

An alluring oasis awaits you at the Taj Cape Town’s recently transformed Bombay Brasserie, where regional Indian cuisine is being honoured and elevated by executive chef, David Tilly, and sous chef, Binoy Mishra

- RICHARD HOLMES

It’s been just over a decade since Bombay Brasserie first opened its doors, introducing hungry Capetonians to the realm of Indian cuisine given a fine-dining twist. Although South African diners often overlook hotel destination restaurants, this elegant space in the heart of the Mother City has gone from strength to strength.

Now, after a major refurbishment that overhauled both the decor and the menu – adding an elegant new bar area – the flagship restaurant of the Taj Cape Town hotel is more delicious than ever before. This is largely thanks to the globetrotting skills of executive chef, David Tilly. Born and raised in the Brittany region of north-west France, it was days spent on his grandparents’ farm and summer holidays working alongside his uncle, a chef, that first inspired David to seek out a life in the kitchen.

At the age of 16, he began working as an apprentice chef in the family-owned restaurant, L’Auberge des Vieux Chênes in the former Limousin region of south-central France, moving to Paris before he’d even turned 18. Over the next five years, David earned his stripes in some of the city’s finest restaurants, including Michelin-starred Le Meurice Alain Ducasse, before the travel bug bit and he hopped on the Chunnel to London. There, the dynamism and meritocracy of English kitchens captivated David: “London opened my eyes to more cuisines because it’s such a melting pot of food. And there is so much opportunity to grow as a chef.”

It was also in London that the chance to join Taj Hotels arose. After a kitchen trial, David found himself jetting off to the hospitality group’s flagship property in New Delhi. “I really had to dig deep into Indian cuisine,” recalls David with a smile. “It’s not easy to live in a big city like New Delhi, but I fell in love with India, the food and the people.”