Fish tales

In his new book Take One Fish, chef JOSH NILAND shares more boundary-pushing, scale-to-tail recipes.

- JOSH NILAND

Fish is the main source of protein for almost 1 billion people globally, yet more than 30 per cent of commercial fisheries are operating at unsustainable levels. It is an increasingly pressing problem, without easy solutions. But what’s key is challenging the system by shifting the focus towards valuing diverse species and all parts of their edible components.

My priority is to maximise the yield from one single fish, which I firmly believe should not be seen as something we only take the fillets from. There is a minimum of 90 per cent delicious potential in each and every fish in good condition, a number that represents nearly double the commonly accepted yield. What does this mean? Well, ultimately, for every fish caught we can generate the yield of two. So, one less fish is caught, effectively doubling the output of fish for the world.

Fish is so much more than two fillets held together by a head and a tail. It should be a real privilege to consume and something that, in both the cooking and eating, brings you and your family real joy.

Drunken bass grouper with mushrooms

SERVES 4

“This dish is inspired by two incredible Australian chefs, Kylie Kwong and Neil Perry. I have had many memorable experiences with a dish of this nature at both of their restaurants,” says Josh Niland. “The big, fleshy, succulent bass groper really comes into its own here as it soaks up the flavours from the stock.” Pictured p105

4 x 150 gm bass groper darnes (see note), skin on 12 fresh shiitake mushrooms

100 gm oyster mushrooms

100 gm enoki mushrooms

1 tsp sesame oil XO sauce, to serve

GINGER SPRING ONION SAUCE