Eric Rousseau peruses the wine list at Chez Guy, a chic restaurant favored by vignerons in the center of Gevrey-Chambertin. He settles on a Gevrey-Chambertin 2016 from Domaine Duroché, a colleague in the village. Decorations from the past weekend's festival of Saint Vincent, patron saint of winegrowers, remain installed in the town and clearly, there is pride and camaraderie among the Gevrey growers.
Humble, boyish, and soft-spoken, with smiling eyes, only the creases on his face bear witness to 40 years working in the vineyards. He raises his glass when proprietor Guy Rebsamen pours a taste. "C'est bon," he says and nods as if recognizing an old friend.
Rousseau knows the terroirs of Gevrey-Chambertin well. As the owner of Domaine Armand Rousseau, he farms parcels in some of its best climates, including sizable holdings in Chambertin, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze, Ruchottes-Chambertin, and Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St.Jacques, an exalted premier cru that many Burgundy aficionados consider to be of grand cru quality.
His meticulous cultivation of the Pinot Noir grapes in these plots results in wines that are prized around the globe. The wines always reveal the purity of fruit, with superb harmony, complexity, and length and a vibrant feel that lends finesse and energy. The oak is never obtrusive, even in the top three-Clos St.-Jacques, Clos de Bèze, and Chambertinwhich sometimes age in 100% new oak Burgundy pièces. In short, they are benchmark wines for both the commune and the region.
The philosophy chez Rousseau is neither a mystery nor complicated and has remained consistent over three generations. "Our philosophy, really, is to bring Pinot Noir in the bottle as naturally as possible through our work in the vineyards, the vinification, and aging,” says Rousseau. “I think our clients come here and they find the wines agreeable, wines of pleasure."
Bu hikaye Wine Spectator dergisinin May 31, 2022 sayısından alınmıştır.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 9,000+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber ? Giriş Yap
Bu hikaye Wine Spectator dergisinin May 31, 2022 sayısından alınmıştır.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 9,000+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber? Giriş Yap
Shipwrecked Champagne Hoard Discovered Near Sweden
It sometimes feels like wine has a habit of falling into the briny deep. On July 23, Polish wreck diver and underwater photographer Tomasz Stachura announced that he and his Baltictech team had discovered the wreck of a 19th-century sailing ship near Öland, an island off the coast of Sweden—and it was crammed with bottles of Champagne and mineral water.
Openings: The Latest in Napa Tasting
Several new tasting options have opened in Napa Valley, particularly in downtown Napa where wineries are launching satellite tasting rooms. Standing out from the crowd means trying new approaches. Here are some highlights:
War in Middle East Affects Vintners
The 2024 harvest at Israel’s Dalton Winery was punctuated by nonstop rocket and drone attacks launched from just across the border in Hezbollah-controlled southern Lebanon.
Wineries Sue Napa County in Federal Court
Three Napa wineries filed a joint lawsuit in federal court in September alleging that Napa County officials violated their constitutional rights.
Savoring Persimmon Season
For many, persimmons are an enigma ingredient. Chef David Nayfeld of Award of Excellence-winning Che Fico in San Francisco and its Best of Award of Excellence sibling dangling persimmons off the tree with a stick at a childhood friend's house before realizing what they were. \"I remember his parents saying, 'Hey, don't hit the persimmons, those are food!\"\"
Tasting Plate: A German Six-Pack
Though it boasts Western Europe’s largest population and biggest economy, Germany is nowhere near the cheese juggernaut its neighbors Switzerland and France are. That said, the Germans love their fine cheeses, and they do turn out some excellent ones, fortunately including more than a handful that are currently available here in the U.S.
Gigondas Blanc Est Arrivé!
Ask winemakers in the Southern Rhône to name the most exciting white grape in their region and you will hear a growing number of them say \"Clairette.\"
Kistler's DARKER SIDE
Russian River Valley Pinot Noir ups the ante at the house that Chardonnay built
THE SPLENDOR OF CHAMPAGNE
THE REGION'S LEADING PRODUCERS DELIVER HIGH QUALITY AMID A DIVERSE RANGE OF STYLES
MICHAEL BATTERBERRY: 1932-2010 Gourmet, Journalist, Gentleman
Before Food Network, Top Chef or Yelp ... before the term “foodie\" ... before tomatoes were heirloom and sushi was fast food... back when fancy restaurants were always French... Michael Batterberry and his wife, Ariane, were working to celebrate and elevate the status of American chefs and international cuisine. Julie Mautner, Food Arts' former executive editor, looks at the life and legacy of her late mentor, affectionately known as The Bat.
