The heat is on…

Toby is keeping a close eye on a feisty horseradish – luckily, he knows how to keep this flavoursome firebrand in check

- Toby Buckland

COMPARED to the off-the shelf condiment, homemade horseradish sauce is atomic. So peppery and spicy, most cookery books recommend preparation in a ‘well-ventilated kitchen’! Still, making your own will clear your nose, and probably deal with any termite problems.

Horseradish has been around for thousands of years. Long before Europeans had heard of habanero, and Tabasco sauce was a twinkle in Meso-American’s eye, it was the go-to flavour-giver for bringing dull dishes to life. Unusually for spice, it’s the roots and not the leaves or fruits that provide the taste. Now the leaves have gone to the ground and the cold has concentrated the flavour, this is the perfect time to harvest and plant afresh.