Land Of Pleasure

From Port to pasteis, Portugal is a seductive mixof sun-swept views and wonderful wines.

- Richard Holmes

I think it was the evening light sparkling on the waters of the broad Tagus River estuary, the golden sunshine glancing into the deep alleyways of the Alfama, medieval lanes akimbo. Then again, it could have been the attractive cobbled squares filled with buskers, and the lively buzz of a city yet to experience the crowds of high summer.

Whatever it was, standing above a sea of terracotta roofs alongside the Roman gates to the old city, it was hard to imagine a lovelier place than Lisbon in the heady days of spring.

Portugal’s tourism industry is enjoying a revival, and South African travellers have been quick to catch on to the rich heritage, fine food and wonderful wines the western edge of Europe has to offer. It’s a fair bet you’ll start your travels in Lisbon, as charming a capital as you could ask for. As time was in short supply on my visit, a four-hour tour on an electric tuk-tuk was an ideal whistle-stop introduction to the city.

To the west, the lively streets of the Bairro Alto are famed for their nightlife and great bars. In the east, the heritage district of Alfama is utterly charming. With winding alleyways, cosy restaurants, fado bars and leafy squares, it’s little wonder tourists spend plenty of time here. For shopping, it’s the Chiado district you want, with both chic boutiques and international brands. And do make time for the Bertrand Bookshop on Rua Garret: established in 1732, it’s officially the world’s oldest bookstore.

Then there’s the more formal grid of the Baixa and the grand Praça do Rossio. From here, the palm-lined boulevard of Avenida da Liberdade stretches north, while the pedestrianised Rua Augusto makes a beeline south to the Tagus, and more impressive waterfront public spaces.