The first time they surfed Prowlers, it was without me. I was kissing a stranger on a beach, making out actually. It was awkward. Not just because of the wetsuits, the fine sand getting in, and the rolling cameras. It was the wind, the howling, gusting November wind, more so than the shouting director, or the lack of spark between us, or the cold water on our feet.
Though it was awkward, the howling wind kept me satisfied, kept me going. The wind meant, in my head, I wasn’t missing Prowlers, as it’s exposed in all directions to the slightest breeze, the gale meant I could snog away at this stranger, with faith that the entire west coast was awash in giant slop.
Making out with the strange woman was part of the premise for a short film. A surfer happily drives her classic car to her local wave sliding spot only to find some foreigner, some yank, some dude out there. The pouty surfer is less than pleased to share her waves, so she seduces him. A make-out session ensues on the beach, but it’s a trick, and the yank is left all tied up with his wetsuit, arms behind back, helpless, lying on the sand, leaving her to surf her Irish waves sans the annoying American.
It was pitch black at six-o-clock when the RTE news came on above the production table. The crew of the short film was about to order their wrap party dinner.
“The west coast of Ireland has once again enhanced its reputation as a major tourist destination for surfers following the rise of major surf tubes known as prowlers.”
Behind the news lady was Al Mennie, soul arching through a bottom turn on a wave that I had seen break only in my imagination. The newscaster got the lingo embarrassingly wrong, of course, but no matter how weird the words, the news just told me I missed it.
I swerved right then, excused myself to mope in my comfortable-enough-for-the-tourists room and curse my bad luck.
Bu hikaye Carve Surfing Magazine dergisinin Issue 200 sayısından alınmıştır.
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Bu hikaye Carve Surfing Magazine dergisinin Issue 200 sayısından alınmıştır.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 9,000+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber? Giriş Yap
2020 Wetsuit Guide
If the recent boom in wetsuits sales is anything to go by, the best bit of advice we can give you is make swift decisions and invest quickly. To help you, here’s the lowdown on the best wetsuits on the market right now.
CEYLON STORIES
SERENDIPIDITY IN THE INDIAN OCEAN.
ENGLISH NATIONALS
TOLCARNE TAILSPINS IN THE LAST COMP FOR A WHILE . . . MAYBE
THE ST VALENTINE 'S DAY MASSACRE
ROB MILES AND CALLUM DAVID THOMAS MIX IT UP WITH THE WORLD’S BEST AT ALL TIME SAFI.
BARBADOS
FAMILY FRIENDLY SURF TRIPPING TIPS
GENE GENIE
FROM PAIGNTON THROUGH VARIOUS PROFESSIONAL KITCHENS WITH A SOJOURN IN THE SCOTTISH ISLES EUGENE TOLLEMACHE NOW CALLS INDO HOME AND IS LOVING LIFE
*OCCIDENTAL DRIFT
THE BLEEDING EDGE OF SURF EXPLORATION IS A HOT, INHOSPITABLE PLACE. BUT WORTH THE MISSION.
TASMANIA ART CLUB
BRENDON GIBBENS AND DION AGIUS EXPLORE THE LITTLE CHUNK HANGING OFF THE BOTTOM OF AUSTRALIA AND GET CREATIVE
Mr Smith
THE GENIAL ED SMITH IS ONE OF THOSE SURFERS THAT HAS A TON OF ABILITY AND TOYED WITH THE COMP SCENE BUT SOON REALISED A REAL TRADE AND SURFING FOR HIMSELF WAS A WISER OPTION. WE BUMPED INTO HIM ON OUR MISSION TO SCOTLAND, AND HE WAS KILLING IT EVERY SESSION. SUPER STYLISH, ALWAYS DEEP, A PLEASURE TO SHOOT. HE 'S A GOOD BLOKE TO GO FOR A PINT WITH TOO.
SETH MOZ
SETH MORRIS IS A YOUNG PRO FROM A QUIET PART OF WALES. HE JOINED US ON OUR WINTER MISSION TO PORTUGAL, WHERE HE IMPRESSED ALL WITH HIS STYLISH ATTACK. READ ON FOR A PEEK INSIDE HIS HEAD.