Time is relative; in the grand scheme of things, we are only on this planet for a short time. What we choose to do with it is the question. We all have ambitions and aspire to fulfil our dreams, but in reality, the best that most of us can hope for is that we live a long and meaningful life having worked in the same job, living in the same place and retiring happily. Our mind spends most of the time lost in fantasies and illusions, reliving pleasant or unpleasant experiences and anticipating the future with eagerness or fear. We never seem to live for the moment or live in the now.
But what if the rollercoaster of life dealt you a severe curveball like a tumour in a critical part of your brain?
Meet Travis McCoy and discover the exceptional circumstance that changed his life forever, forcing him to re-evaluate his priorities to allow him to be able to follow his dreams.
Trav, how are you feeling right now?
Right now, I am okay. I'm just sitting in Padang about to go back out to the Mentawai Islands, and I am getting better - heaps better than I have been - but I am forever riding on waves of emotion and tripping out. The accident is something that changed my life within a split second. I went from thinking that I'm going to grow old and have a long and happy life to basically, I have this short time to live or, the best-case scenario, will need to have an operation that will leave me physically impaired.
What brings you to the Mentawais?
This place is my second home. I will be coming back here until I am six-feet under. The waves you surf. The people you meet. Also, I get to kick it with one of the best humans in the world. Diego (owner of Mentawai surf camp) is the best mate anyone could ever ask for. This place is where I feel the best and where all that medical stuff feels the most distant.
Bu hikaye Carve Surfing Magazine dergisinin Issue 200 sayısından alınmıştır.
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Bu hikaye Carve Surfing Magazine dergisinin Issue 200 sayısından alınmıştır.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 9,000+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber? Giriş Yap
2020 Wetsuit Guide
If the recent boom in wetsuits sales is anything to go by, the best bit of advice we can give you is make swift decisions and invest quickly. To help you, here’s the lowdown on the best wetsuits on the market right now.
CEYLON STORIES
SERENDIPIDITY IN THE INDIAN OCEAN.
ENGLISH NATIONALS
TOLCARNE TAILSPINS IN THE LAST COMP FOR A WHILE . . . MAYBE
THE ST VALENTINE 'S DAY MASSACRE
ROB MILES AND CALLUM DAVID THOMAS MIX IT UP WITH THE WORLD’S BEST AT ALL TIME SAFI.
BARBADOS
FAMILY FRIENDLY SURF TRIPPING TIPS
GENE GENIE
FROM PAIGNTON THROUGH VARIOUS PROFESSIONAL KITCHENS WITH A SOJOURN IN THE SCOTTISH ISLES EUGENE TOLLEMACHE NOW CALLS INDO HOME AND IS LOVING LIFE
*OCCIDENTAL DRIFT
THE BLEEDING EDGE OF SURF EXPLORATION IS A HOT, INHOSPITABLE PLACE. BUT WORTH THE MISSION.
TASMANIA ART CLUB
BRENDON GIBBENS AND DION AGIUS EXPLORE THE LITTLE CHUNK HANGING OFF THE BOTTOM OF AUSTRALIA AND GET CREATIVE
Mr Smith
THE GENIAL ED SMITH IS ONE OF THOSE SURFERS THAT HAS A TON OF ABILITY AND TOYED WITH THE COMP SCENE BUT SOON REALISED A REAL TRADE AND SURFING FOR HIMSELF WAS A WISER OPTION. WE BUMPED INTO HIM ON OUR MISSION TO SCOTLAND, AND HE WAS KILLING IT EVERY SESSION. SUPER STYLISH, ALWAYS DEEP, A PLEASURE TO SHOOT. HE 'S A GOOD BLOKE TO GO FOR A PINT WITH TOO.
SETH MOZ
SETH MORRIS IS A YOUNG PRO FROM A QUIET PART OF WALES. HE JOINED US ON OUR WINTER MISSION TO PORTUGAL, WHERE HE IMPRESSED ALL WITH HIS STYLISH ATTACK. READ ON FOR A PEEK INSIDE HIS HEAD.
