THE FIRST THING TO KNOW about touring Tangier: Don’t go without a guide. On the first day of our stay, we made that mistake. A maddening array of eager escorts approached at what seemed like every few steps, some quite aggressive. The next day, we engaged guide Aziz Begdouri to lead the way. It was as if a force field surrounded us. No one harassed us. Moroccans we passed nodded in greeting to Begdouri, a respected figure who owns Hotel La Maison Blanche in the old quarter.
Begdouri and Ahmed Taoumi, former president of Tangier’s professional guides association, are veteran guides, speak excellent English and come recommended.
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