A FAIRY-TALE CITY HEMMED in by mountains on one of the area’s most beautiful lakes, Lucerne exemplifies Switzerland in a nutshell. Its stirring medieval old town brims with sgraffito-adorned houses, colorful buildings, a covered bridge and a glistening lake complete with swans — along with a sophisticated, grownup vibe that makes you want to be an insider. Myriad mountain trails, water sports options aplenty, a history including the likes of Goethe and Wagner, and heady museums such as the Rosengart Collection establish Lucerne as a destination in itself. But how to spend your evenings?
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