For someone who champions tradition in Indian cooking, Helly Raichura takes an approach that’s far from traditional. A self- and family-trained cook who was born and raised in Ahmedabad in India’s west, Raichura came to Melbourne in 2007 to study human resources but, via an ongoing and ever-increasing love for cooking, ended up hosting one of the hottest food tickets in town in her own home. Enter Via Laundry, so-named because guests (10 per night) literally entered her home through the laundry, served multiple, intricately plated versions of the Indian food Raichura loved but couldn’t find in Melbourne.
Fast-forward a couple of years, past the waiting list that grew to the thousands and a series of pop-ups after using her home as a restaurant lost its charm, and Enter Via Laundry now has a permanent home in North Carlton. It’s retained the name despite the lack of laundry and the approach has changed a little too. Instead of plating and serving multiple dishes fine-dining style, Raichura is more closely emulating the way the food would be served “back home”.
Bu hikaye Gourmet Traveller dergisinin July 2022 sayısından alınmıştır.
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Bu hikaye Gourmet Traveller dergisinin July 2022 sayısından alınmıştır.
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Not a vegetable but rather a flower bud that rises on a thistle, the artichoke is a complex delight. Its rewards are hard won; first you must get past the armour of petals and remove the hairy choke. Those who step up are rewarded with sweet and savoury creaminess and the elusive flavour of spring. Many of the recipes here begin with the same Provençal braise. Others call on the nuttiness of artichokes in their raw form. The results make pasta lighter and chicken brighter or can be fried to become a vessel for bold flavours all of which capture the levity of the season.
