Living Museum

A Stroll Through The Historical, Architectural Wonderland Of Old Bharuch.

- Zac O'Yeah

I had read much on Bharuch in old history books. In ancient Greek and Roman texts it is mostly called Barygaza, the greatest port of India, which attracted scores of foreigners. Not only Greeks and Romans, but Egyptians, Africans, Arabs, and Malay and Chinese merchants came here—making it one of the world’s most cosmopolitan cities 2,000 years ago. Yet today, it has largely fallen off the tourist map. While checking in to a small hotel the stage tells me that they have two restaurants. One specializes in Gujarati thalis and the other in Punjabi style paneer meals. I’m also discreetly informed that they can serve tandoori chicken and alcohol in my room should I require it. The whispered offer makes me thrilled about finally being in Bharuch.

CITY OF GODS

I head off cheerfully on my exploration with printouts from Google Maps in my bag, because I couldn’t find any tourist maps or useful information online. Walking along the dotted route I’d plotted, I find there are no signs pointing to heritage buildings or sightseeing spots. After a kilometre of trudging through increasingly dusty backstreets, a slope takes me downhill to the Narmada River. The riverbed turns out to be an endless stretch of grassland where cattle graze. Imposing old fortifications loom large along the riverfront. After cross-checking with an archaeological document I’d found online, I determine that this is the historic Undai Darwaja, once a majestic bastion, and one of the nine ancient entrances to the city (open sunrise-sunset; entry free).