NAGALAND‘S CITY BY THE RIVER RUNS DEEP

A FEW DAYS IN DIMAPUR ARE ENOUGH TO EXPERIENCE ITS MANY PLEASURES—COLOURFUL CRAFTS, TREAT-FILLED RESTAURANTS AND ACCESSIBLE NATURE TRAILS

- Rajni George

Any visitor to Nagaland usually passes through Dimapur, before moving on to the hills of peaceful Kohima, home to the Hornbill Festival, 75 kilometres away; the pristine village of the Angamis, near Kohima, called Khonoma; scenic Dzukou Valley, part of the Khonoma Nature Conservation and Tragopan Sanctuary; or rustic Mon, stronghold of the Konyak tribe half a day’s drive away from Dimapur, which hosts the Aoleong Festival ,showcasing the traditional homes of these one-time headhunters and anghs (kings).

Dimapur, the largest city in Nagaland, is the gateway to its treasures, home to the only railhead and airport. The capital of the Dimasa Kachari Kingdom in the middle ages, it is located on the banks of the Dhansiririver (Dimapur is literally ‘city by the river’). The city is dusty, its roads are ridiculously potholeridden and difficult to navigate. But a few days here will acquaint you with urban, local life in Nagaland, away from the typical tourist itinerary.