TOUR DE FORT

Rajasthan’s latest grand heritage hotel’s claim to fame should be its stunning readaptation of six centuries of Chauhan and Rajput history and local arts, crafts, and cuisine—and not a Bollywood wedding

- PRANNAY PATHAK

There’s no dearth of viewpoints at Six Senses Fort Barwara. The Shikar Burj overlooks a lush expanse of the Aravallis that stretch into the stark immensity of Rajasthan. The foyer stands right across the Kharbuja Mahal and Zenana Bagh courtyard stares like a precipice over the patchwork settlement of Barwara. The east end of their all-day diner extends into the belly of a watchtower whose three diaphanous jharokhas proudly frame windswept grass stalks on a nippy evening. The Viewing Gallery is a proud pavilion whose understated magnificence flourishes under the propitious watch of its silent guardian, Chauth Mata.

It is said that the goddess appeared in the Chauhan ruler Maharaja Bhim Singh’s dream, asking to be worshipped in Barwara, a former fief in present-day Sawai Madhopur. Chauth Mata’s wish was the devout king’s command, who had the temple built in the year 1451. A storied shrine sits on top of a hill not too far away, visible from the north face of the fort: the temple underpins the very idea of Chauth-Ka-Barwara.

Of course, now, having had international hospitality giant Six Senses’ latest outpost come up in its 14th-century fort, Barwara is set to arrive on the international map. Given the whispers that a highly anticipated Bollywood wedding might take place here, passersby and townsfolk still stop in their tracks to stare at the massive hybrid SUVs ferrying guests up to the property. It is hard to believe every statement that is being made out there about this somnolent pilgrim town.