Parts UNKNOWN

North Kerala often gets overshadowed by its popular southern sibling. And that’s actually a blessing in disguise.

- AMIT DIXIT​​​​​​​

WOULD YOU BELIEVE IT IF I TOLD YOU THERE IS A PART OF KERALA that has it all: pristine, uncrowded beaches, looming mountains shrouded in mist, not to mention serene, unpolluted and traffic jam-free backwaters? I wouldn’t have believed it either, if I hadn’t seen it with my own eyes.

For travellers, the far north of Kerala has always been a bit of an unchartered territory, although, of course, it is home to millions of people. I had been aching to visit for well over a decade but, somehow, plans kept fizzling out. Then, suddenly, it all fell into place. I flew into the brand-new Kannur airport with my friend Altaf Chapri, who runs one of the most exclusive beach resorts in this part of the country (his hospitality empire stretches, quite literally, from Kashmir to Kerala). But, before our bums hit the beach, we had a loftier rendezvous to make.

LIFE IN THE High lane

It was a wild and dreamy drive deep into the folds of Wayanad, past coffee bushes in heady, aromatic bloom, towering teak and rubber plantations, neatly manicured tea estates, bustling, little towns—and those legendary hairpin bends…

There were culinary temptations at every turn too. I finally gave in to a sublime Mutta (egg) curry and parotta combo at a clean, well-appointed teashop, which are ubiquitous in these parts (clean ones, I mean). The tea could be politely described as ‘strong’—that’s how they like it here. If I’d known what sumptuous fare awaited me at our destination, I would have held out, god’s-own-country promise.