AN ODE TO SEVILLE

Despite being the capital of the Andalusian region, Seville retains an old-world charm. PRANJALI BHONDE basks in its abundant antiquity, artsy alleys, open-air cafes, and flamenco performances.

- PRANJALI BHONDE

A DANCER IN A long red dress stands alone in the darkness. The keening voice of a cantaora (singer) fills the air. “A la mare de mi alma (To the sea of my soul)”, she intones. The dancer’s arms flutter, as if awakened by the mournful singing. Her feet move slightly before turning around in one swift motion. Another dancer joins in, wearing a striking yellow dress and a mantón (a type of fringed shawl), and hair done up with a peineta (an ornamental comb) and flowers. The cantaora accompanies their dance with songs, exhortations, and palmas, the rhythmic clapping of hands between beats. The movements portray different styles of flamenco: from alegrías to tarantos and the most popular bulerias. I’m in Seville—regarded as the birthplace of flamenco— seated inside a cave at Museo del Baile Flamenco (museodelbaileflamenco.com), sipping sangria and trying to keep pace with the mesmerising footwork of the Spanish dance unfolding in front of me.