Farm Fare
Saveur|Summer 2019

A midday meal ritual for Korean growers is inspiring one California cook.

Chaney Kwak
Farm Fare

IN A WATERCOLOR PAINTING TITLED SIMPLY Saecham, 18th-century Korean artist Kim Hongdo portrays shirtless men seated on the ground, sinking chopsticks into huge bowls of rice and tipping back cups of makkoli, a fermented, lightly effervescent rice drink with the alcohol content of beer. Though modernization has made the practice scarcer today, similar scenes still play out in parts of the Korean countryside. Literally translated as “in-between break,” the communal meal known as saecham brings farmers together for quick but hearty sustenance in the midmorning and late afternoon. Chef Michael Kim of Maum—a 16-seat tasting-menu restaurant in Palo Alto, California—wants to introduce this daily ritual to an American audience.

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