Territory dreaming

Leave behind the big smoke and lose yourself in the sprawling, solitary vistas of Kakadu and Arnhem Land.

- PETER GRIFFITHS

As the sun dips towards the horizon at the grand Nawurlandja lookout, it’s impossible not to feel liberated. On this baking red escarpment in the midst of remarkable Kakadu, we sit and breathe in the world around us – endless savannah broken only by other rocky outcrops, the Anbangbang Billabong ahead of us and the Burrungkuy (Nourlangie) rock art site behind. It’s only a brisk 15-minute walk from car park to peak, and yet we’ve entered rarefied air. We could be at the end of the Earth.

This is the soul of the Northern Territory, with its open spaces, dramatic landscapes and bracing sense of freedom. Here lie wonders that seem a whole world away, but are a five-hour flight or less from anywhere in Australia. Outdated notions about the Top End – too far, too hot, too dry – have given way to a spirit of adventure, with getaways that can be tailored to any comfort and energy level. Enjoy an expert-guided tour, planned or bespoke itineraries, or just strike out on your own and explore. Choose where to go and how much to see; come for a few days or a few weeks.

We’re travelling with Offroad Dreaming (offroaddreaming. com.au) on an initial two-day tour of the 20,000 sq km Kakadu National Park. It’s just a small group of us in a big 4WD, with our delightful driver and guide Kelda. Her local knowledge and insights underscore the benefits of having a guided experience – “to be told what you’re looking at when you’re looking at it,” as she puts it. There’s only one road in and one road out of Kakadu. Soon the Darwin traffic gives way to single-lane roads, and eventually the Bowali Visitor Centre and park ranger Adrian, for a cultural and philosophical grounding in Kakadu from both Gukberkero (Aboriginal) and Guhbele (non-Aboriginal) perspectives.