The Air Up There
Cruising World|January - February 2023
Sailing in Greenland is not what I thought it would be. It's even better.
Ben Zartman
The Air Up There

I had always imagined, looking at world globes and navigational charts, that the surface of the earth would somehow feel different the farther north you went. That perhaps gravity would pull you at a slanted angle, or that the horizon would look narrower as the longitude lines drew closer together. I imagined one would get shortness of breath or vertigo as the polar regions were approached.

Not surprisingly, as far as those things go, everything seems the same even several hundred miles north of the Arctic Circle. The horizon is as expansive as ever, water stays level in a glass, and my head is not swimming from lack of oxygen.

What is different, though-shockingly, disconcertingly different is the perpetual daylight. Long before Polar Sun, the Stevens 47 we're cruising in Greenland, reached the Arctic Circle, we had left the night behind. The last darkness we saw was when we left Flowers Cove, in northern Newfoundland, at 2 a.m. to catch the downtide to Mary's Harbour in Labrador. After that, with the bows pointed north into the Labrador Sea, though the sun would briefly set, the twilight endured until it rose again just a little to the right of where it had gone down.

It was good that it should be so because there are icebergs about in late June in the Davis Strait, and though we didn't see many, the ones we did see made us grateful for the light and a sharp lookout. There was little else to look out for, though. Between putting Labrador astern and fetching Greenland ahead five days later, we saw only one coastal ship between each place. It was a surprisingly benign passage at first, given what I'd been led to expect about the Davis Strait. For three calm and pleasant days, we alternated between the engine and the "whomper"-a huge, yellow asymmetrical spinnaker-and congratulated ourselves on our luck.

Bu hikaye Cruising World dergisinin January - February 2023 sayısından alınmıştır.

Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 9,000+ magazines and newspapers.

Bu hikaye Cruising World dergisinin January - February 2023 sayısından alınmıştır.

Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 9,000+ magazines and newspapers.

CRUISING WORLD DERGISINDEN DAHA FAZLA HIKAYETümünü görüntüle
Off Watch
Cruising World

Off Watch

A1A is not only my favorite Jimmy Buffett album, but it's one of my favorite records ever. If I were marooned on an island and could bring only five CDs with me, this would be one of them

time-read
3 dak  |
January - February 2024
PREPARING A VESSEL FOR SURVEY
Cruising World

PREPARING A VESSEL FOR SURVEY

Trying to hide a boat's problems never ends well for the seller. Follow these tips to have a successful day

time-read
3 dak  |
January - February 2024
THE WESTERN WAY
Cruising World

THE WESTERN WAY

Instead of buying a pricey custom canvas awning for my schooner, I made my own \"covered wagon.\"

time-read
6 dak  |
January - February 2024
HIDDEN GEM
Cruising World

HIDDEN GEM

BUT ALL AROUND IS A PARADISE FOR SAILORS WHO LOVE TO LINGER AND EXPLORE

time-read
6 dak  |
January - February 2024
Last Man Standing
Cruising World

Last Man Standing

During the past four decades, the once-thriving business of American production sailboat manufacturing has nearly vanished, and dozens of companies and builders have fallen by the wayside. And then there's Tartan Yachts of northeast Ohio, which, in some aspects, is as vibrant as ever. Longtime Tartan stalwart Tim Jackett, a marine-industry lion in winter still making a stand, might be the central reason why

time-read
10+ dak  |
January - February 2024
Boat of the Year 2024
Cruising World

Boat of the Year 2024

With sweet, early autumn sailing conditions on Chesapeake Bay, a strong fleet of 19 contenders competed for top honors in our annual Boat of the Year competition. Once the spray had settled and the votes were tallied, the judges awarded prizes in seven categories for monohulls and multihulls. The overall winner? The surprising, innovative Jeanneau Yachts 55.

time-read
7 dak  |
January - February 2024
On Watch
Cruising World

On Watch

Sometimes, a seamanship or safety issue requires sailors to give up and turn around. But other times, it's just fear taking control of a situation that can be handled

time-read
7 dak  |
January - February 2024
Sailor & Galley
Cruising World

Sailor & Galley

This rich, steaming stew from the Pacific Northwest warms chilled sailors' bones and brings back a lifetime of memories.

time-read
2 dak  |
January - February 2024
Seamanship
Cruising World

Seamanship

George Eldridge first published the Eldridge Tide and Pilot Book in 75. Its new edition, published by the sixth generation of his family, is an impressive feat of continuity

time-read
5 dak  |
January - February 2024
Island Time
Cruising World

Island Time

It's impossible to rank these favorite destinations by beauty. Instead, sailors should set a waypoint based on what they want to experience

time-read
8 dak  |
January - February 2024