SKETCHED IN MEMORY

Oscar-winner costume designer Bhanu Athaiya has left behind an unparalleled legacy of work. Ruman Baig spends an evening uncovering it

- Ruman Baig

On a cold January evening in Delhi, the organisers of the 'Legacy of Bhanu Athaiya' exhibit seem to have severely underestimated the popularity of the Academy Award-winning costume designer. I entered the venue on time to find the space teeming with the who's who of the art and fashion world. With no empty chair in sight, I parked myself on the floor cross-legged just as the panel discussion began.

What followed in the next hour was a treasure trove of untold information shared by three women closely connected to Bhanu and her work-meticulously moderated by curator Brijeshwari Kumari Gohil, Vice President of Prinseps, the auction house that represents the estate of Bhanu Athaiya.

"This was a time when no books were written about Indian textiles, and the books that were published by the British focused on the clothes of Indian servants and nothing more. Bhanu had no reference point to begin her research," designer Ritu Kumar, a friend and colleague of the late legend, shared with pride. In an age of mood boards downloaded straight from Pinterest, the appeal of Athaiya's originality stands out, more piercing than ever.