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A HIDDEN LEGACY

Grazia India|March - April 2025
It's bold, flavourful, and deeply tied to Mumbai's roots – this hidden cuisine is ready for its time in the sun
- Words PRATIKSHA ACHARYA
A HIDDEN LEGACY

Mumbai is a city that wears its culinary heritage on its sleeve – whether through its iconic Irani cafés, bustling udipis, or legendary seafood joints. But beyond these well-known staples lies a lesser-explored gem: The cuisine of the Pathare Prabhus, one of Mumbai’s oldest communities. While their distinct culinary tradition has remained largely within the confines of home kitchens, a recent wave of interest is bringing it to the spotlight. Chefs like Soumitra Velkar and passionate food enthusiasts are actively working towards making Pathare Prabhu cuisine a permanent mainstay.

There are striking similarities between Koli cuisine, East Indian cuisine, and Pathare Prabhu cuisine,” says veteran food journalist and proud Pathare Prabhu, Kunal Vijayakar. “For instance, the Chandraseniya Kayastha Prabhus add dried shrimp to their khichdi, much like how we use prawns in so many of our dishes.”

The Pathare Prabhus trace their lineage back to Rajput warriors who, in the 12th century, fled from Rajasthan and Gujarat to escape persecution by Alauddin Khalji’s army. “They moved southwest and eventually settled in Mumbai under King Bhimdev or Bimba Shah, who made Mahim – then called Mahikawati – his capital,” explains Chef Soumitra. “That’s where our ancestry ties in.”

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