REDESIGNING HISTORY
Grazia India|August 2024
Not everyone can be a costume designer, much less, for period dramas, but for these individuals, bringing history to life on the silver screen is instinctive
PRATIKSHA ACHARYA
REDESIGNING HISTORY

ANJU MODI

Anju Modi fondly remembers her time on the Bajirao Mastani (2015) and Goliyon Ki Raasleela Ram-Leela (2013) sets. Not only did she get a front-row seat to watch love blossom IRL between Deepika Padukone and Ranveer Singh, but also fun instances where Priyanka Chopra and Deepika Padukone would banter with Sanjay Leela Bhansali on who would get the better saree for a specific sequence. These light-hearted moments were sprinkled through the rigorous shooting schedules of two of Bhansali’s blockbuster hits. It’s no secret that Bhansali is a hard taskmaster, but that’s something that designer Modi took in her stride when she worked on the two movies for which she designed costumes. Costume design comes naturally to Modi, who has been working with craftspeople and artisans for the majority of her 35-year-long career. “Ram-Leela came to me in 2011 when Sanjay ji was looking for a designer who was proficient in the authentic craftwork of Gujarat. He found me, rather than it being me who approached him. So, that was a lucky day,” Modi chuckles as she reminisces about her early days of working on the project. Sonam Kapoor recommended Modi to Bhansali after seeing her collection ‘Meera’ inspired by Sant Mirabai, which featured beautiful tie-dye work from Rajasthan and Gujarat.

When approaching the drawing board to create costumes for a film, Modi constantly studies the nuances of the characters and gets into their skin. “I need answers to questions about their psyche, emotions, and who they are as people. In Ram-Leela, when Deepika takes on the role that her mother played as the matriarch, I ensured that she was powerdressing, in contrast to her outfits when she was initially being flirtatious with Ranveer’s character in the movie. We did full-sleeve jackets and collared blouses to make her look more powerful. Costumes are created per the scene’s demand and to support it,” adds Modi.

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