As you read this issue, a titan of watchmaking will have just celebrated his 90th birthday. Plenty of watches make it well past this mark but this reminds us that mere mortals often do not, even an august personage such as Kurt Klaus. In a leap year that sees the WOW team pay special attention to perpetual calendars, we were nevertheless surprised to learn of this momentous occasion while doing research on the aforementioned complication. Klaus is, of course most famous for his seminal work on the perpetual calendar for IWC, where he made a mark that is still felt today. If you have an IWC perpetual calendar from the Klaus era onwards, you bear testament to this legacy.
The perpetual calendar at IWC has two distinct phases before Kurt Klaus and after Kurt Klaus. As noted in our special in the Autumn issue of WOW, the perpetual calendar has not had many significant developments in the last 100 years. One of the few developments worth taking note of was Klaus' work in 1980s. According to IWC and plenty of published reports, Klaus was IWC's head watchmaker in the early 1980s, and he had it in mind to do the unthinkable improve on the mechanical perpetual calendar. To cut the suspense, this would go on to become the criminally underrated Da Vinci Chronograph Perpetual Calendar in 1985. Them's fighting words, as they say but it all makes sense when you consider that the all-indications-adjusted-by-one-crown system emerged from this multi-complication.
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Bu hikaye WOW Singapore dergisinin Legacy 2024 sayısından alınmıştır.
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BUOYANT HEAVYWEIGHTS
The ubiquitous use of titanium and carbon fibre does not satisfy a growing number of watch lovers; the indisputable rise of quiet design vexes them. The recent release of hefty and heavy timepieces, especially in the dive watch segment, proves that some just like it big
YEN FOR PRECISION
While we typically think of watchmaking as a Swiss matter, this ignores the powerful contributions of Japanese industry and know-how. We begin this deep dive with a look at the biggest names in the game
LEGENDARY DEPTHS
From pioneering chronographs to revolutionizing dive watches, Longines has always been at the forefront of horological advancements. Explore how the Swiss brand's journey through water-resistance shaped the future of dive watches-and made a splash in the process
LEAPING AHEAD
IWC updates the perpetual calendars in its Portugieser range with four new models
HOLDING THE HIGH GROUND
Chanel's 2024 collection represents a rare moment where haute couture and haute horlogerie coexist perfectly
SARTORIAL TIMING
Parmigiani Fleurier encourages us to take a second, and perhaps third, look at the new Toric collection of watches
LEFT HAND DRIVE
The DOXA SUB 300T Aristera is a tribute to the brand's heritage in dive watches, combining the original design with a left-handed twist for 2024, offering the standout features that made DOXA renowned while breaking new ground in functionality
LIVING HISTORY
A. Lange & Söhne has spent the better part of this year celebrating the 25th anniversary of the seminal Datograph. With the Datograph Handwerkskunst, the watch is elevated to the highest level
THE PURSUIT OF PERFECTION
Since its inception, Rolex has never wavered in its pledge to create the world's finest watches for anyone, anywhere
SWEET SPOT
The Longines Legend Diver is just the right amount of watch for a contemporary sports model that could also pull dress watch duties