Modern beauty

The new creative director of Alaïa, Pieter Mulier honours the timeless vision of the maison's founder

- JACK MOSS

Until Pieter Mulier was named creative director of Alaïa in February 2021, U he was largely known only by fashion insiders; he was a right-hand man, the confidante and creative partner of fellow Belgian Raf Simons, whom he first worked for as an intern at the latter's eponymous label in the early 2000s. Their partnership would continue during Simons' tenures at Jil Sander, Dior, and finally, Calvin Klein, where, in 2016, Mulier was made global creative director to Simons' chief creative officer (there, after the presentation of each collection, they would take their bow as a pair). Two years later, they exited the American behemoth together. Mulier cited 'fashion burnout'. 'At some point, I started asking myself: who buys all this?' he said at a talk last year in Antwerp.

In 2014, Frédéric Tcheng's documentary Dior & I (see W*192) provided a glimpse into this rare and enduring creative partnership, capturing the eight-week period Simons was given to create his debut couture collection for the historic French house. Simons is mercurial, at times conflicted; Mulier is diligent, and well-mannered, smoothing the link between Simons and the atelier (Mulier speaks French, Simons only a little). In one scene, each member of the atelier is asked to select a look from the collection to create a recognition of the emotional resonance of couture, whereby each garment is forever linked to the singular hand that made it, and the singular body that it was made for.

After the show, Simons takes his runway bow in tears; Mulier, watching backstage, is equally moved. 'I'm only doing couture now,' he whispers with a smile to one of the ateliers.