Finally meeting my Waterloo

As commuters dash to catch their train home from south London and lovers meet under its giant clock, Julie Harding explores Waterloo–Britain’s busiest railway station–on the eve of its 175th anniversary

- Julie Harding

WE meet under the giant clock opposite platform 12. The four-faced timepiece, made by Gents of Leicester, has hung above the concourse of London’s Waterloo Station for 101 years, presiding over perhaps more than a million rendezvous, even secret romantic trysts, in that time. Where else would you arrange an encounter but at Britain’s busiest railway station, where today—an ‘unexceptional’ Thursday in late spring (as in, there have been no major disruptions, such as signalling issues or fires on the line)—225,000 workers, tourists, shoppers, theatregoers and fun-seekers will pass through the ticket gates either bound for the capital or England’s South-West?

Rachel Kolsky, historian, author, prizewinning guide and self-confessed ‘natterer’, was here just before the clock’s colossal metal hands signalled 2.30pm (or 14.30 in railway parlance). Ms Kolsky has eschewed the umbrella, however—that prop favoured by myriad tour guides—and instead sports a green tote bag slung over one shoulder, out of which peep bright pink and yellow felt flowers, arresting and conspicuous enough to enable any new followers swiftly to pick her out from the crowd. The tour, which is set to highlight facts and features of this station ahead of its 175th birthday on July 11, will last only 90 minutes, so time is of the essence.