Asian Inspirations

Chef Ace Tan on his second restaurant, Asu-his love letter to regional Asian cuisine

- Lauren Chian

Amidst Labrador Nature Reserve, a winding road flanked by lush foliage culminates in a rustic colonial bungalow sitting pretty atop a hill. Resonant with polyphonic cicada song, this tranquil sanctuary tucked away from the bustle of the city is where Singaporean chef Ace Tan has realised his dream of a limitless dining space where one feels at home.

You see, housed within this 10,000‑square‑feet historic building is Tan’s latest F&B venture Asu, which opened its doors to the public this October. A love letter to regional Asian cuisine, the 25‑seat fine‑dining restaurant—one of three establishments currently occupying the bungalow (the other two are the smart‑casual Cantonese‑Teochew restaurant Shan and a bar, as yet unnamed, that doubles as an events space)—offers exclusive tasting menus curated by the 42‑year‑old. The chef shares that while the Singapore dining scene remains competitive, he is hopeful that the biophilic environment, his renewed focus on personal craft, and appealing to health‑conscious gourmands will sustain demand for this new restaurant.

“It’s easy to work for F&B groups, but ultimately, what I wanted was to explore the origin of food and keep to the integrity of the ingredients used in the past,” Tan explains of his decision to open Asu. “Take soya sauce, for example. No one knows how it came to be a staple through generations. With Asu, we’re going back in time to replicate the time‑intensive [cooking methods] of ageing and braising.”