BACK TO THE BASICS

Watch brands routinely look into their archives to resurrect vintage models that carry their essence and legacy. We take a look at the 2024 revivals that revisit the past while presenting a contemporary outlook.

- Chitra Lohani Saharan

The year 2024 has been a hot one for vintage comebacks. In January, Bvlgari at LVMH Watch Week 2024 brought back its iconic, original Bvlgari Bvlgari from 1977. Designed by Gérald Genta as the brand's first wristwatch, it was characterised by a flat bezel that had Bvlgari's name engraved twice across its circumference. The very first iteration in 33mm yellow gold became a hit in the 1980s when it was donned by celebrities like George Michael, who wore it with a brown leather strap. Inspired by the rim of Imperial Roman coins where an emperor's name would typically encircle a relief image, Bvlgari Bvlgari was a minimalist, bold design.

Over the decades, the line evolved through various materials, sizes, colours, and complications. In fact, in 2014, it was redesigned to have a sleeker bezel, streamlined lugs, and the in-house BVL 191; it also gained a 41mm model at the time. However, with the new releases, the line returns to the vintage aesthetics of the original.

The latest additions, the 38mm Bvlgari Bvlgari Refs. 103967 and 103968, with an automatic movement, and quartz 26mm Refs. 103966 and 103897, crafted in yellow gold and rose gold with the signature double logo on the bezel, come the closest to the first design. And the brown leather strap has made a comeback in the novelties.

The Ref. 103967 is encased in yellow gold and flanked with a black leather strap.

On its matte black Zapon-lacquered dial are the applied gilded hour indexes, numerals at 12 and 6, along with elongated batonshaped indexes and central hour, minute, and seconds hands. There's a date aperture at 3 o'clock, while the 'Swiss made' inscription at the dial's base, along with the absence of the logo, preserves the original Bvlgari Bvlgari dial design. The other, Ref. 103968 comes in a rose-gold case, silvered matte opaline dial, and a brown leather strap.