PLANT-BASED LEATHER TAKING ROOT

But limited infra and lack of govt incentives driving up cost of sustainable vegan products

- ROSHNI SHEKHAR

Allen Solly, a brand under the Aditya Birla Fashion and Retail umbrella, has introduced a range of products made from materials like apple peels and cactus leaves in India.

This move comes after growing demand for sustainable and crueltyfree fashion, a trend that's seen significant growth in recent years.

However, local brands in India have been a step ahead and have already established various products using vegan leather.

The global vegan leather market size is projected to reach $204 million by 2030, growing at a CAGR (compound annual growth rate) of 11.4 per cent from 2023, according to a report by IndustryARC, a market research consulting firm. This growth is mirrored in India, where over 1,000 brands now carry the "PETA-approved Vegan (PAV)" certification, as per PETA India.

Vegan leather is an eco-friendly replacement for animal leather. As per PETA (People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals), it is often made from polyurethane (PU), a polymer, or from materials such as pineapple leaves (Piñatex), cork, apple peels, other fruit waste, and recycled plastic. Then the vegan leather is used to create products.

SOURCING CHALLENGES AND COMPLICATED SUPPLY CHAIN

"The cost of sourcing alternative materials like apple leather, cactus leather, and recycled fabrics is generally higher than traditional materials (animal leather)," Richa Pai, chief operating officer of Allen Solly told Business Standard in an email response.

These materials require more complex manufacturing processes and specialised farming or recycling methods. Since these alternatives are relatively new, the economies of scale have not yet fully developed, leading to higher production costs. However, as demand and production scale increase, costs are expected to decrease over time, she added.