It is deep-fried or slow-roasted whole to buttery softness; it is cut into steaks, carefully seared, and anointed with frothing butter like a porterhouse; it is probably close to being so ubiquitous as to be boring in an entirely new way.
However, at Tendril, a largely plant-based restaurant just off Regent Street, chef Rishim Sachveda does something truly memorable and novel with it.
Here, it is roasted to smoky, yielding succulence, surrounded by a creamy moat of delicately spiced coconut milk moilee, and set aboard a hidden sweet potato fritter that provides a face-flushing surge of chilli warmth.
I mention this dish right at the start firstly because it is one of the foremost reasons to visit Sachveda's largely meatfree kitchen residency, which recently was extended until at least February.
But also because it was a clarifying rarity: a stray moment of genius that highlighted some of the dynamism that was absent elsewhere during my meal.
Bu hikaye Evening Standard dergisinin November 30, 2022 sayısından alınmıştır.
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Bu hikaye Evening Standard dergisinin November 30, 2022 sayısından alınmıştır.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 9,000+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber? Giriş Yap
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