At dusk and dawn, if you’re lucky, in the Dolomites you can experience a phenomenon that’s unique. As the light is in its in-between period, passing through its liminal space from day to night, the mountains start to glow a pink-red colour. The phenomenon, which has its own name – enrosadira – is one of the many things that are special about this part of the world.
The mountains here feel different from anywhere else. They’re jagged and pointy, screaming out into the air. You both do and don’t have time to contemplate the majesty around you as you cycle through this landscape; a part of the world less than three hours from Venice but as isolated as it is possible to be in the centre of Europe. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site, but unlike my closest one at home – Bath – it is wholly based on the beauty of the natural landscape.
I came to the very north-east of Italy, the land of that not-often-spoken dialect Ladin, in search of some of the toughest but dreamiest roads to cycle on, to grind my way up. Trust me, there was a lot of grinding to be done. The Giro d’Italia often passes through this way in its reliably brutal final week, but while the names might be recognisable – Gardena, Sella, Pordoi or Giau – these are further down the bucket list than the more easily reachable French Alps or the Pyrenees.
It might be in Italy, in Veneto, in fact, but everything has a very Austrian vibe here, with its sloped roofs and Gothic churches. One half expects someone in lederhosen to appear, but this is Italy, one part of the patchwork country. Italian is spoken, but so is Ladin, and so is German. The Dolomites are a world between worlds.
Bu hikaye Cycling Weekly dergisinin October 05, 2023 sayısından alınmıştır.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 9,000+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber ? Giriş Yap
Bu hikaye Cycling Weekly dergisinin October 05, 2023 sayısından alınmıştır.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 9,000+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber? Giriş Yap
"We tore around the Sydney suburbs at 60kph in a terrifying, feral pack"
Fast, furious and furry tales from Australia
RIDDEN AND REVIEWED BROMPTON G LINE £2,499
A Brompton for running riot in both town and country
How do different gravel conditions impact your tyre choice?
There are a myriad of tyres on the market but selecting the right one is easier than you think
FEAST OF SWEDEN
Soon after landing in Gothenburg, I began to realise how little I knew about Sweden.
THE WORLD'S GREATEST GRAVEL EVENTS
Globe-trotting gravel racer Joe Laverick chooses his eight favourite events, from coastal Wales to the wilds of Kenya
THE CALL OF THE WILD
Tempted to embark on a long-distance bike adventure? Let former round-the-world record holder and author Julian Sayarer inspire you to strike out and hit the road
Saint Piran accused of using non-UCI legal bikes
Cornish team also alleged to owe former staff tens of thousands of pounds
JOE LAVERICK GETTING INTO THE FEED ZONE
I've ridden through hundreds of feed zones in my time racing a bike.
Lowden not ready to stop after retirement
Former Hour record holder eyes UK time trial scene
Pogačar makes history (again) at Lombardia
Slovenian makes it four in a row at the late-season Italian Monument