SHOPPING IN SEOUL
Condé Nast Traveller India|November 2023 - January 2024
South Korea's capital may have grown into a pop-culture powerhouse, but its artisans are keeping ancient craft traditions alive.
Chris Schalkx
SHOPPING IN SEOUL

CRAFTED CURIOS 

Soluna Living, the Seoul outpost of Hong Kong's Soluna Fine Art, produces homeware and objets d'art that marry contemporary designs with ancient skills. The pint-sized shop and gallery features fine basketry by Jeong Da-hye, who uses a horsehair-weaving technique traditionally used for men's headwear; colourful goblets by glass-blowing artist Glory G; and handmade hapjukseon bamboo fans made by a fourth-generation craftsman in Jeonju.solunaliving.co.kr

PAPER TRAIL

Hanji, a richly textured paper made from mulberry tree bark and a paste of hibiscus manihot root, has been a Korean craft staple for centuries. Until the 1970s, the streets of Insa-dong were lined with workshops selling hanji used for everything-from floor coverings to canvases for calligraphy. Today, family-run Dong Yang Hanji is one of just a handful of specialists. Rolls of hanji in every texture, colour and thickness line the walls of the two-storey space. Many of the papers are produced at their workshop in Gimpo, just north of Seoul, and some sourced from local small-scale workshops. hanjipark.modoo.at

CELESTIAL CERAMICS

South Korea's most prominent ceramic craft is baekja, a minimal, often all-white porcelain made popular during the Joseon dynasty. Today, a new generation employs the technique to make tableware and renditions of dal hangari (moon jars), resembling a full moon. Ilsangyeoback in Seochon sells a vast collection of ceramic plates, tea sets, and dal hangari made by artisans from around the country. An adjoining gallery hosts exhibitions on local artists. Mo-No-Ha, in gallery-studded Hannam, has contemporary designs like ceramist Park Sung-wook's black-glazed teapots and tactile plates by Ecriture Studio. isyb.kr; mo-no-ha.com

GREAT CHEMISTRY

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