A brand new ancient

Part-time Athenian ANASTASIA MIARI on the best places to eat, drink and sleep in her metropolis.

My city is not an easy city. A historic meeting (or collision) between the Middle East and Europe, Athens is chaotic, hot and frenetic. A soundscape of motorbikes, market sellers and characterful locals is what I wake to every morning but then again, so are the blue skies, warm spanakopita and lush bitter orange trees that line most pavements. Usually reserved merely as a stopping off point between the mainland and the islands by those seeking the white-washed, blue-shuttered houses of Instagram, Athens has only recently been getting the love and recognition it so deserves.

Yes, people have travelled to the city to visit its Ancient Wonders (the majestic Parthenon, its ancient Agora) for centuries. Lord Byron and Henry Miller were fans but the Athens of the 21st century has so much more to offer than just a slice of the city’s ancient past. Since the years of the 2008 financial crisis, boarded-up shops have become buzzing restaurants showcasing Greece’s finest culinary talent. Old hotels have been renovated and restored to their former glory. Verdant parks that were once no-go zones have been filled with flowers, playgrounds and cultural events, drawing people back once more.

From gallery openings, pop-up dining experiences and book launches – Athens is a city that is lived by the locals after dark. We spill out from restaurants into graffitied streets, we drink rakomelo and tsipouro to the twang of the bouzouki and we populate hotel rooftops until the wee hours. The entire city breathes at night and once the sun comes up, we can always rely on Greek coffee, spanakopita and the Acropolis to enliven.