Last spring, I wrote about the phenomenon gardeners call the "hungry gap"; that time in spring when the birds are singing, the sun is shining, but the vegetable garden is bare. Winter veggies have all finished, but summer crops have not yet come on. We are compensated for this hiccup in the harvest schedule by the brief appearance of a few special treats. One is the globe artichoke.
Not to be confused with its distant cousin the Jerusalem artichoke, which is a root vegetable, the globe artichoke resembles a small, fleshy cabbage. It is a member of the daisy family, related to lettuce, radicchio, and the Australian native yam daisy, which has been a staple of southern Australian Indigenous diets since time immemorial.
Artichokes grow wild on the shores of the Mediterranean Sea. Their buds are brutally thorny, and relatively small. The fat, unarmed artichokes we know today were probably developed in North Africa and Muslim Spain during medieval times.
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Not a vegetable but rather a flower bud that rises on a thistle, the artichoke is a complex delight. Its rewards are hard won; first you must get past the armour of petals and remove the hairy choke. Those who step up are rewarded with sweet and savoury creaminess and the elusive flavour of spring. Many of the recipes here begin with the same Provençal braise. Others call on the nuttiness of artichokes in their raw form. The results make pasta lighter and chicken brighter or can be fried to become a vessel for bold flavours all of which capture the levity of the season.
