About halfway through the evening, it became clear that the gentleman to my right was not just a familiar face at Yoshii's Omakase, but a frequenter of the other 15-plus omakase establishments that have taken Sydney by storm in recent years. He told me he'd dined at almost all of them, then proceeded to admit that this was the only one worthy of repeat visits.
I can't say I've been to half as many, but I can understand why he keeps returning. It sure isn't the $350 price tag, which might be the priciest of its kind in the country. Most of it has to do with the chef, Ryuichi Yoshii, whose name has long been synonymous with first-class sushi in the Harbour City. But before we delve into the sushi, we should probably discuss the rice.
Unlike others, Yoshii cooks his in a claypot over charcoal and seasons it with red sake-lees vinegar, known for its mellower tartness. The grains emerge beautifully, delicately bound.
Bu hikaye Gourmet Traveller dergisinin August 2023 sayısından alınmıştır.
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Bu hikaye Gourmet Traveller dergisinin August 2023 sayısından alınmıştır.
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Already a subscriber? Giriş Yap
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HEART AND SOUL
Not a vegetable but rather a flower bud that rises on a thistle, the artichoke is a complex delight. Its rewards are hard won; first you must get past the armour of petals and remove the hairy choke. Those who step up are rewarded with sweet and savoury creaminess and the elusive flavour of spring. Many of the recipes here begin with the same Provençal braise. Others call on the nuttiness of artichokes in their raw form. The results make pasta lighter and chicken brighter or can be fried to become a vessel for bold flavours all of which capture the levity of the season.
