KYOTO

Beneath the surface of sedate geisha teahouses and hushed shrines, Kyoto is a hotbed for legendary live music here, Japan's most unique, riotous acts are set free in the city's underground clubs, grungy dive bars and historic cafes

- DANIEL STABLES.

An Irish pub is, perhaps, not the obvious place to find yourself in the cultural heart of Japan. It's with some trepidation, then, that I settle into a corner table at Field, an Irish pub above an udon restaurant in downtown Kyoto, where the door sign advertises that classic combination of 'draught Guinness, good Irish music, and curry bread of Noharaya'.

My apprehension turns out to be wildly misplaced. Over the next couple of hours, a succession of fantastically talented Japanese musicians takes to the stage, putting the fiddle, flute, banjo and tin whistle to a series of riotous jigs, reels and slides that wouldn't be out of place in the pubs of Dublin. "Europeans and Americans living in Kyoto started the Irish music sessions in pubs in the 1990s," manager Hikaru Sato tells me between tunes. "A few curious Japanese joined them, and the Irish music scene was born."

The genre was seized upon with aplomb by subsequent generations of Japanese musicians, who've taken it up with the passion, verve and skill typical of this nation of hobbyists. "Japanese people often believe that mastering something leads to enjoyment, both in work and in hobbies," says fiddle and tin-whistle player Ryo Kaneko, fresh from a rousing rendition of Egan's Polka. There's even a word for it in Japanese: ikigai - the sense of motivation and life force generated by the pursuit of one's passions. "Hobbies are huge here," confirms my guide, Van Milton of Inside Japan. "And when you find one, you go for it, full throttle."