RIGHT AWAY. I NOTICE THE SMELLS.
Jackfruit in the sun. The woody spice of cloves. Star anise in a pot of steaming pho. It's springtime in Hanoi, and the flame trees are in fragrant, coral bloom. Vendors pile bushels of lotus flowers onto their three-wheeled rickshaws and motorcycles. I get a blast of cherry blossom, rice wine, and incense at the entrance to a temple. From a nearby food stall, the lurid tang of fish sauce and grilled, sweet-glazed meat hits me like a psychedelic. It feels like the dawn of a hallucination-complete with the thrill of not knowing quite how the experience will end.
I am back in Vietnam, 15 years after I first came: up to my eyes in the country's sensory carnival, immersed in a flood of memories. Revisiting this place, so central to the stories I tell about myself, makes me recognize how different everything is. How different I am from the 29-year-old who moved here to escape the life he was living, how different the world is. Of course, Vietnam has changed, too. All these fracturing realties, past and present, will take some getting used to.
In 2007, when my life in Los Angeles had reached a dead end and I had nothing to lose, a friend invited me to move to Vietnam to act as a consultant on the Franco-Vietnamese restaurant he was opening in Ho Chi Minh City (to this day it's more often called Saigon). As an aspiring writer, I had lots of experience working "day jobs" in restaurants and an affinity for the expat protagonists of mid-century novels. It may sound strange, but going to Vietnam is the thing in my life I'm most proud of-maybe because it was the kind of thing the "me" I wanted to be would do, a way to indulge all my linen-suit, Graham Greene, and Humphrey Bogart fantasies.
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Bu hikaye Travel+Leisure US dergisinin April 2024 sayısından alınmıştır.
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Already a subscriber? Giriş Yap
The Luxury of Silence - Grieving a dissolved marriage, Nora Walsh seeks peace and compassion at a meditation retreat in California.
My decade-long marriage to a man I deeply love had dissolved, and I had come to the Spirit Rock Meditation Center, in the secluded hills of Marin County, north of San Francisco, to steady myself. Led by the author and meditation teacher Oren Jay Sofer, the seven-day silent retreat focused on the four brahmavihāra, or Buddhist virtues: loving-kindness, compassion, joy, and equanimity.
Family Values - Gay father and blogger Jonathan Bailey shares his proudest moments of traveling with his partner and daughters.
My partner and I grew up in families that didn't travel a lot, so we've always had a sense of wanderlust. Before we had kids, we traveled together, and it was life-changing-travel opened our minds to different ways of life.In 2000, Triton and I decided to have kids. At the time, my mom had terminal cancer, and we were all about connecting with family. We wanted to adopt, because we felt like there were so many children in the world who needed love and a good home. In 2002, my mom passed away, and Sophia was born two weeks later. We welcomed our second daughter, Ava, in 2004.
Back to Sri Lanka - The past few years have not been easy on this alluring South Asian island. But on a return visit, Prasad Ramamurthy finds a place-and a people-on the upswing.
I was at the end of a five-day journey that had begun in the UNESCO World Heritage site of Galle Fort, in southwestern Sri Lanka, and taken me across the southern tip of the island to the leopard reserve of Yala National Park. In between I had taken in the dramatic coastline of Weligama and had stopped for some beach time in Hiriketiya. Sri Lanka is a country I'm particularly fond of, so when I was asked to revisit to report this story, I seized the opportunity. Yes, I was dying to go back, but I'd had another motive for coming: I wanted to see if the island nation was ready to welcome international visitors again.
Experiences: Hands On - Single-malt whiskies and triple-cream cheeses are the stuff New York's Hudson Valley is made of.
The Hudson Valley has long drawn New York City dwellers in search of clean air, spectacular hikes, and upstate culture. Now a budding community of artisans-young farmers, bakers, vintners, distillers-is turning the region into a modern breadbasket.It is a tightly woven ecosystem that also extends to restaurants and hotels. At Tenmile Distillery, in the town of Wassaic, for example, the grain used to make whiskey comes from a farm in Tivoli, 30 miles away, while the gin and vodka it produces are served at stylish addresses like the Troutbeck (doubles from $580), a hotel in Amenia, and the restaurant Stissing House (entrées $22-$155), in Pine Plains.
LAGOS RISING
Africa's biggest city is a powerhouse of art, culture, and fashion. Shirley Nwangwa reflects on her relationship to her family's home and to her Nigerian identity, while photographer Ike Edeani captures the creative scene.
DEEP DIVE
Go for a swim with sperm whales, and you may find yourself hooked. Maggie Shipstead journeys to the Caribbean island of Dominica, where these giants of the deep are making a big splash.
AMERICAN VINTAGE
After years of being in the shadows, Virginia winemakers are finally getting the attention they deserve. Wanda Mann takes a tasting tour.
Take a Hike
A beloved Malibu spa renowned for embracing the outdoors makes its way to the East Coast. Jess Feldman takes an inside look.
Just Dive In
The most nautical Four Seasons has to be this scuba-centric ship, which sails a rarely visited corner of the Pacific.
The Next Frontier
With deep pockets and mighty ambitions, Saudi Arabia is building a high-end resort area with serious green cred.
