SET BETWEEN TWO RIVERS in the foothills of the Black Mountains, the town of Montolieu has all the dreamy trappings of French country life. I arrived from London around breakfast time to find empty lanes that ran through tiny plazas to a large buttressed Gothic church. Wooden shutters in cornflower blue and poppy red echoed the colors of the region's wildflowers. But around 10 a.m., gears shifted. Shutters opened and trestle tables laden with books began to multiply in the streets. Browsers arrived and began sifting through the volumes.
While other villages in this region rest on their charming, sleepy laurels, Montolieu has spent the past 30 years building a fizzing arts community. Though it has just 821 inhabitants-and no ATMs-the town is remarkable for its 16 bookstores, more than 20 public and private art studios, and a cosmopolitan population that hails from around the globe. (During my visit, word on the street was that an Israeli pop star had recently bought a house there.)
It all started in 1990, when Michel Braibant, a Belgian bookbinder who was living in nearby Carcassonne, began encouraging collectors and small-business owners to open bookshops in Montolieu and, later, helped raise funds to create the Musée des Arts et Métiers du Livre, a space dedicated to the practice of bookbinding. (Braibant was reportedly inspired by Hayon-Wye, a town in Wales with a similar bibliophile focus.)
Bu hikaye Travel+Leisure US dergisinin November 2023 sayısından alınmıştır.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 9,000+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber ? Giriş Yap
Bu hikaye Travel+Leisure US dergisinin November 2023 sayısından alınmıştır.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 9,000+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber? Giriş Yap
EARTHLY DELIGHTS
Come fall, the Italian region of Umbria is a lush, fertile inland oasis. Peter Terzian reaps a bounty of culinary and cultural pleasures.
RUNNER'S HIGH
Some travelers like to move at a faster clip. Alexandra Kleeman crosses the peaks and pastures of Ireland with a group of women who take life in stride.
THE WILDEST ISLE
Compared with its neighbors, the island of Hawaii is bigger, more untamed-and, at times, unpredictable. With her family in tow, Flora Stubbs finds the perfect balance between relaxation and rugged adventure.
A ticket to the top of the world
On a luxurious train tour of Peru, Lake Titicaca and Machu Picchu are the headline acts. But, as Monisha Rajesh discovers, witnessing everyday life from the rails can be every bit as memorable.
Bonjour la France
When an American writer retires in Brittany, she learns how to belong again.
Chills and Thrills
On an Alaskan wilderness adventure, Sarah Manguso and her son learn the elements of survival.
Wheels on Fire
With its blazing fall colors and picturesque villages, the Japanese island of Kyushu was made for cycling.
Down to Earth
Pottery runs deep in Santa Fe, from hallowed Pueblo collections to clay-throwing pubs.
Steel City Shining
A tech boom; a thriving cultural scene; destination dining. Can this be... Pittsburgh?
HOPE SPRINGS ETERNAL
This cute Pennsylvania town is brimming with artistic and cultural energy.