Restoring a Lost Art

Textile designer Vinay Narkar left a career as corporate lawyer in Mumbai to revive traditional textile traditions in his hometown, Solapur.

How did a corporate lawyer turn into a textile designer?

VN: I was working with a law firm in Mumbai. I always had a liking for Indian textiles but had no actual connection with hand looms other than buying saris woven in a particular region whenever we traveled. I often visited Solapur, my hometown, which is home to weavers who have migrated from Andhra and Telangana, especially from the Gadwal region. Shrutali, my wife, and I went to see the work of a weaver I happened to meet, and I requested him to weave a sari for her according to my taste. He was reluctant to weave a single sari, but I persisted till he agreed. I gave him the design and colors I wanted and when the sari was ready, everyone liked it very much. My sisters and friends wanted me to get saris made for them as well, and so I designed saris for them based on their individual styles. Soon I was getting orders regularly, and the weaver was getting work regularly.

Around that time there was a Film Festival taking place in Solapur. I designed a silk shawl for the attending dignitaries, including the chief guest who happened to be the legendary costume designer, Bhanu Athaiya. She appreciated the shawl very much and wanted to see my collection. I showed her the saris I had designed for friends and family and Bhanuji suggested I think about taking on designing as a profession. She encouraged me not only through words, but also by placing a good sized order!

I decided to launch a collection. It was not possible to engage many weavers in Solapur, so I decided to go to Gadwal. We did not know anybody there, could not speak in the local language, and it took a year to get one weaver to work for me. Later a few more joined us. My collection got a good response in Solapur, and I decided to hold exhibitions in bigger cities. Though I didn’t have a clue how to go about it, I managed to exhibit in Mumbai and Hyderabad.