The Allure of Banarasi Weaves

Banarasi silk is one of India’s most popular fabrics. Bindu Gopal Rao goes behind the scenes to explore the trials and travails of the traditional weavers, here.

- Bindu Gopal Rao

Varanasi is said to be the oldest city in the world and is well known for the banarasi fabric that is woven into beautiful saris as well as contemporary clothing. However, the industry is reeling under an onslaught of power machines and a new generation that is not keen on pursuing the craft.

WEAVES MATTER

‘Banarasi’ is indeed the ‘fabric of antiquity’. Banaras brocades are unique in their complexity and richness. The structure of the weave allows for complex motifs to be woven in a large number of colours. Banarasi saris come in different weaves as well as different types of silks—which means that you get a lot more variety to choose from. Sagrika Rai, Founder, Warp 'n Weft, says, “The weaves with provenance are as sacred as the city, Varanasi, which imbues it with spirituality and history. Having become a cynosure of cultural and creative activity, Varanasi, (known locally as Banaras) along with its famed brocade and silk weaves have occupied a key position in the landscape of hand loom in the Indian subcontinent.” Designer Lira Gupta, Filme Fashion adds, “The weaves are one of a kind. The work and patience put behind making one piece is always shown on the fabric. You get the sense of your roots and your history by wearing them and also poise when you put it on.”