A Cut Above

Herno CEO Claudio Marenzi on the brand’s transformation from raincoat maker to outerwear behemoth

- By Stuart Brumfitt, Photographs by Mattia Greghi

Milan has taken the art of the puffer to the next level. Understandably so, since it’s only a short drive from the Alps, and on winter Fridays, city dwellers can be seen loading skis onto their car roof racks. Those bitterly cold months mean the Milanese know how to dress up their down, and if you spot someone looking especially neat in their winter warmers, there’s a high chance they’re kitted out in one of Herno’s many bombers, gilets, windstoppers, capes, parkas, trenches, blazers or raincoats.

The Italian brand, which was set up in 1948 by Giuseppe Marenzi and Alessandra Diana, began as a manufacturer of raincoats, waterproofed using castor oil from the planes abandoned after the Second World War. Now it’s a global behemoth, finding infinite new ways to create outerwear in every conceivable combination of nylon, wool and cashmere.

Still based a little under two hours by car from Milan, near Lake Maggiore (for Succession fans, its HQ provides the stunning setting for some of the final negotiation scenes of season three), Herno is presided over by Claudio Marenzi, the third son of Giuseppe and Alessandra. The CEO is a jolly, charismatic character who boasts an impressive mop of hair and wears reissued Enzo Ferrari glasses and bespoke suits. It lends him the kind of signature look favoured by fashion’s elite, but unlike most catwalk front rowers, Marenzi clearly has a comical side. ‘Some people say that I look like the English gentleman, the agent…’ he says, searching for the name. ‘James Bond?’ I ask. ‘No, Powers. Austin Powers!’