Lockdown leads to a few unlikely recruits

COVID-19 resulted in renewed interest in the countryside and lots of mess but it might not have all been a total disaster, says Gethin Jones

- Gethin Jones

One result of the COVID-19 pandemic is that unprecedented numbers of people have visited the British countryside. Green spaces quickly became precious havens in which to spend enforced leisure time and to escape depressing television news. As the country opens up but with foreign travel off-limits, more people are exploring rural Britain, with many venturing into the countryside for the first time.

Outdoor activities have never been so popular with the urban masses. The daily queue at the summit of Yr Wyddfa (Snowdon) last summer bordered on a mini-riot; sales of paddleboards and kayaks have exploded; and wild swimming and wild camping — to the horror of national park authorities and landowners — are gaining more and more devotees.

But what about fishing and shooting? Is there any likelihood that people venturing into our countryside might want to try new experiences with rod or gun? Is buying a rod licence to catch trout or getting an air rifle to add rabbit to the menu the next logical step for a weekend wild-food forager?

James Chiavarini is a restaurateur and enthusiastic hunter-gatherer who runs Il Portico in Kensington, which serves dishes of game, fish and wild foods. He says his clients are tremendously positive about eating naturally sourced game and venison. Despite what he sees as a widespread lack of awareness and respect for the countryside, James supports more public access — but with this privilege should come accountability.