FLY ME TO THE MOON

While sake is not wine, it is the perfect drink to bring out the full flavour of any omakase dish and so when chef Hatch has his own exclusive rice wine to go with sushi, you know Hashida is serious about both

- JONATHAN HO

BEFORE THE UBIQUITY of sushi restaurants, they were rare because a sushi dinner was relatively pricy and it was common for sushi connoisseurs to really know the ins and outs of fish to enjoy the fine artisanship of sushi. After the ’90s, Japan’s bubble economy led to a surge in affluence which sent newcomers to the high culture of sushi in droves.

Along with the nouveau riche, came tastes and desires that were unheard of before, fish with a myriad of side dishes and alcohol, as a result, sushi culture started to shift to cater to these demands. Given the extreme civility of Japanese society, these new consumers were sparred embarrassment of not knowing particular fish species or the special seasonal breeds that were being served, the “omakase” concept was then born: chefs would serve fish and other ingredients that they had on hand, without disappointing customers who either didn’t know what to ask for, or know not to request for it when it was out of season.

Guests could then enjoy a convivial evening of conversations and exquisite table service, leaving everything to their omakase restaurant hosts. In a 2019 study conducted by Japan’s Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries, the number of restaurants serving Japanese cuisine overseas had jumped about 30 per cent in two years, due to an expanding Asian middle class. Indeed, the rise of Singaporean affluence has meant that snagging a reservation at omakase restaurants in town can be a challenge and for a place like Hashida? More so.

Tasting The Sublime