DESPITE its slick, glossy sheen and generously abundant curves, the aubergine is decidedly modest, shy rather than showy, entirely happy in the supporting role. For this is one of those ingredients (and it is botanically a fruit, rather than a vegetable) that feels no need to shout, lacking the chilli’s roar or lemon’s bite. No, the aubergine has a gentle, subtle appeal, offering luscious succour to flavours more strident than its own.
That’s not to say it’s a second-tier ingredient, however. Far from it, the aubergine plays an essential role in cuisines the world over: Mediterranean hero, Indian stalwart and staple of the East, Near, Far and Middle alike. From smoky Gujarati ringan no odo to Greek moussaka; Afghani turshi bonjon-e-sia pickle to Thai yam makeua yao (aubergine salad); Turkish Imam bayildi (meaning ‘The Imam fainted,’ although whether from delight at the dish or shock at the cost of the oil used, no one is entirely sure) to Italian melanzane alla parmigiana. The aubergine is an astonishingly versatile fruit.
And one that transforms, with the application of heat, from raw and stolid to soft and silken. As seen so beautifully in nasu dengaku, that Japanese classic, where the aubergine is sliced in half, slashed, then slathered with a mix of miso, mirin, sake and soy sauce, before being slid under a raging grill. The result is sweet, savoury and utterly beguiling—culinary alchemy at its best.
هذه القصة مأخوذة من طبعة September 08, 2021 من Country Life UK.
ابدأ النسخة التجريبية المجانية من Magzter GOLD لمدة 7 أيام للوصول إلى آلاف القصص المتميزة المنسقة وأكثر من 9,000 مجلة وصحيفة.
بالفعل مشترك ? تسجيل الدخول
هذه القصة مأخوذة من طبعة September 08, 2021 من Country Life UK.
ابدأ النسخة التجريبية المجانية من Magzter GOLD لمدة 7 أيام للوصول إلى آلاف القصص المتميزة المنسقة وأكثر من 9,000 مجلة وصحيفة.
بالفعل مشترك? تسجيل الدخول
Kitchen garden cook - Apples
'Sweet and crisp, apples are the epitome of autumn flavour'
The original Mr Rochester
Three classic houses in North Yorkshire have come to the market; the owner of one inspired Charlotte Brontë to write Jane Eyre
Get it write
Desks, once akin to instruments of torture for scribes, have become cherished repositories of memories and secrets. Matthew Dennison charts their evolution
'Sloes hath ben my food'
A possible paint for the Picts and a definite culprit in tea fraud, the cheek-suckingly sour sloe's spiritual home is indisputably in gin, says John Wright
Souvenirs of greatness
FOR many years, some large boxes have been stored and forgotten in the dark recesses of the garage. Unpacked last week, the contents turned out to be pots: some, perhaps, nearing a century old—dense terracotta, of interesting provenance.
Plants for plants' sake
The garden at Hergest Croft, Herefordshire The home of Edward Banks The Banks family is synonymous with an extraordinary collection of trees and shrubs, many of which are presents from distinguished friends, garnered over two centuries. Be prepared to be amazed, says Charles Quest-Ritson
Capturing the castle
Seventy years after Christian Dior’s last fashion show in Scotland, the brand returned under creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri for a celebratory event honouring local craftsmanship, the beauty of the land and the Auld Alliance, explains Kim Parker
Nature's own cathedral
Our tallest native tree 'most lovely of all', the stately beech creates a shaded environment that few plants can survive. John Lewis-Stempel ventures into the enchanted woods
All that money could buy
A new book explores the lost riches of London's grand houses. Its author, Steven Brindle, looks at the residences of plutocrats built by the nouveaux riches of the late-Victorian and Edwardian ages
In with the old
Diamonds are meant to sparkle in candlelight, but many now gather dust in jewellery boxes. To wear them today, we may need to reimagine them, as Hetty Lintell discovers with her grandmother's jewellery
