Dished Out Not A Celebrity

Wolfgang Puck gets real about fame, food and success.

- Hannah Choo

ACCORDING TO AMERICAN author Rick Warren, we are products of our past. For Wolfgang Puck, this stands true to some extent. A nightmarish childhood in a small town in Austria drove him constantly to the kitchen. But what started as a refuge from abuse by his stepfather proved to be the catalyst for something great. That kid in the kitchen eventually grew into a superstar chef who made his mother, also a chef, proud. Puck brought the knowledge he learnt from Raymond Thuilier at L’Oustau de Baumanière in Provence to the US in the early 1970s, a time of frozen dinners and little gustatory sophistication. There, he became the star attraction of Ma Maison in West Hollywood, bridging tradition with invention, a huge appeal for the rich, famous and anyone with a curious palate. He went on to open his first restaurant, Spago, and, as of today, runs over 20 fine-dining establishments, including a Spago at the top of Marina Bay Sands. I caught up with Puck over lunch to discuss his disdain for the word ‘celebrity’, perfection and his benchmark for success in life.

What is it like to be you?

I consider myself the luckiest person in the world. I never dreamt of being so successful. But I like where I am and where I came from. I’ve had my ups and downs, but the ups outweigh the downs by far. I would do life all over again, except for my childhood. I grew up with an abusive stepfather, which is why I left home at 14. I left the country at 17, and life got better.

What does it mean for you to cook for people?