ON THE SHORES OF LAKE TOBA

The beguiling Lake Toba, in North Sumatra, is the world’s largest crater lake. Its surrounds are home to pristine landscapes, one of the country’s tallest waterfalls and the Batak ethnic group

- JEREMY PIPER

I’m standing at a bus stop, scratching my head in bemusement, unsure where to go next. I’ve just wandered out of the airconditioned sanctuary of the relatively new Sisingamangaraja XII International Airport into the enervating fug of a North Sumatran afternoon. First things first: I make a dash for the woman standing by a brightly decorated, wooden food cart in the shadow of a roadside tree. She’s laughing with her friends and chewing beetle nut while fanning the flamed-grilled corn — a succulent must-have for travellers.

Being one of the only international travellers to arrive on the flight, it’s easy to get the attention of the enthusiastic taxi drivers outside the terminal. My driver, Kadek, soon becomes my new best friend. He vividly describes a mystic site tucked away in the mountains, surrounded by lush, volcanic fields: Sipiso-Piso, a plunge waterfall in the Batak highlands of North Sumatra. It’s a few hours away and requires a change to my itinerary, but ends up being one of the most awe-inspiring experiences.

Mesmerising mists

Fed by a small underground river of the Karo Plateau, the 394ft-high cascading torrent and the surrounding landscape are mesmerising. A mist cloud from the constant fall of water forms above it and is lifted by a light wind before drifting across a family’s home.