ON THE SHORES OF LAKE TOBA
National Geographic Traveller (UK)|Indonesia 2021
The beguiling Lake Toba, in North Sumatra, is the world’s largest crater lake. Its surrounds are home to pristine landscapes, one of the country’s tallest waterfalls and the Batak ethnic group
JEREMY PIPER
ON THE SHORES OF LAKE TOBA

I’m standing at a bus stop, scratching my head in bemusement, unsure where to go next. I’ve just wandered out of the airconditioned sanctuary of the relatively new Sisingamangaraja XII International Airport into the enervating fug of a North Sumatran afternoon. First things first: I make a dash for the woman standing by a brightly decorated, wooden food cart in the shadow of a roadside tree. She’s laughing with her friends and chewing beetle nut while fanning the flamed-grilled corn — a succulent must-have for travellers.

Being one of the only international travellers to arrive on the flight, it’s easy to get the attention of the enthusiastic taxi drivers outside the terminal. My driver, Kadek, soon becomes my new best friend. He vividly describes a mystic site tucked away in the mountains, surrounded by lush, volcanic fields: Sipiso-Piso, a plunge waterfall in the Batak highlands of North Sumatra. It’s a few hours away and requires a change to my itinerary, but ends up being one of the most awe-inspiring experiences.

Mesmerising mists

Fed by a small underground river of the Karo Plateau, the 394ft-high cascading torrent and the surrounding landscape are mesmerising. A mist cloud from the constant fall of water forms above it and is lifted by a light wind before drifting across a family’s home.

The hike down to the base of the falls is no easy feat, but it’s certainly worth it. For those who aren’t up for it, grabbing a cool drink and fresh fruit from a street vendor while admiring the falls from the lookout is just as satisfying. Standing there in the cool mist, I’m mesmerised by its sheer force. Watching it feels rather therapeutic.

هذه القصة مأخوذة من طبعة Indonesia 2021 من National Geographic Traveller (UK).

ابدأ النسخة التجريبية المجانية من Magzter GOLD لمدة 7 أيام للوصول إلى آلاف القصص المتميزة المنسقة وأكثر من 9,000 مجلة وصحيفة.

هذه القصة مأخوذة من طبعة Indonesia 2021 من National Geographic Traveller (UK).

ابدأ النسخة التجريبية المجانية من Magzter GOLD لمدة 7 أيام للوصول إلى آلاف القصص المتميزة المنسقة وأكثر من 9,000 مجلة وصحيفة.

المزيد من القصص من NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER (UK) مشاهدة الكل
Dianne Whelan
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

Dianne Whelan

THOUGH NOT A SEASONED HIKER TO BEGIN WITH, THE FILMMAKER BECAME THE FIRST PERSON TO COMPLETE THE WORLD'S LONGEST TRAIL NETWORK

time-read
3 mins  |
January/February 2025
NIGERIA
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

NIGERIA

The country's many communities come together over hearty meals with plenty of heat

time-read
2 mins  |
January/February 2025
Katie Hale
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

Katie Hale

A VOYAGE TO THE GREAT WHITE CONTINENT IS BOTH A DREAM COME TRUE AND A CALL TO ARMS, TO PROTECT OUR ICY POLES AND, IN TURN, OUR PLANET

time-read
3 mins  |
January/February 2025
WILTSHIRE
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

WILTSHIRE

BEYOND THE MAIN ATTRACTION OF STONEHENGE, WILTSHIRE HAS EQUALLY IMPRESSIVE ANCIENT SITES, GIANT CHALK HORSES AND COSY PUBS IN HISTORIC VILLAGES

time-read
3 mins  |
January/February 2025
BATH
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

BATH

Thermal baths and Regency heritage have put this Somerset city firmly on the travel map - and this year the spotlight will be on former resident and literary great Jane Austen, in celebration of the 250th anniversary of her birth

time-read
7 mins  |
January/February 2025
GRANADA
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

GRANADA

In this Andalucian city, flamenco is an art form as well as a way of life not just for traditional dancers and singers but also for hip-hop stars, classical guitar legends and street artists

time-read
9 mins  |
January/February 2025
India's Golden Triangle
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

India's Golden Triangle

LINKING DELHI, THE TAJ MAHAL AND THE PINK CITY OF JAIPUR, WITH DETOURS FOR TEMPLES AND TIGERS, THIS IS THE PERFECT ROUTE FOR FIRST-TIMERS. WORDS: POOJA NAIK

time-read
10+ mins  |
January/February 2025
FORGED BY FIRE
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

FORGED BY FIRE

A SUBTROPICAL ISLAND IN THE ATLANTIC, MADEIRA HAS RUGGED VOLCANIC MOUNTAINS THAT RISE ABOVE THE CLOUDS, NATURAL SWIMMING POOLS DOWN AT SEA LEVEL AND MORE THAN 1,900 MILES OF HISTORIC AQUEDUCTS TRACING THE LANDSCAPES IN BETWEEN

time-read
2 mins  |
January/February 2025
ADRIFT IN THE ARCTIC CIRCLE
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

ADRIFT IN THE ARCTIC CIRCLE

A KAYAKING EXPEDITION THROUGH NORWAY'S LOFOTEN ISLANDS OFFERS WHITE-SAND BEACHES, ROYAL ENCOUNTERS AND THE CHANCE TO CHANNEL YOUR INNER VIKING

time-read
10 mins  |
January/February 2025
the RETURN
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

the RETURN

ON A PRIVATE GAME RESERVE IN SOUTH AFRICA'S KWAZULU-NATAL PROVINCE, AN UNLIKELY CREATURE IS MAKING A TENTATIVE COMEBACK - AND VISITORS ARE OFFERED A GLIMPSE INTO THE CONSERVATION EFFORTS TO SAVE IT AND OTHER NATIVE WILDLIFE

time-read
10 mins  |
January/February 2025